Upper Mustang

Upper Mustang is the northern part of Mustang District in central Nepal, the former Kingdom of Lo, a dry trans-Himalayan landscape of red cliffs, wind-carved canyons, cave dwellings and Tibetan Buddhist monasteries. It was closed to foreigners until 1992 and still requires a restricted-area permit, arranged through a registered agency, and a licensed guide. The standard trek follows the Kali Gandaki north from Kagbeni to the walled city of Lo Manthang (3,840 m) and returns by a different route past Ghar Gompa. Because it lies in the rain shadow of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges, it is one of the few Nepal treks that works in the monsoon. Allow 12 days from Pokhara, with flights to and from Jomsom, and good wind clothing. It suits cultural travellers and photographers, but the permit rules, the afternoon wind and the Jomsom flights all need planning well in advance.

Overview

Upper Mustang covers Lo-Ghekar Damodarkunda and Lo Manthang rural municipalities. The region has a cool, semi-arid climate with roughly 250 to 400 mm of precipitation a year, because the Himalaya shelter it from the monsoon. The Kali Gandaki runs through it and, south of Kagbeni, forms the Kali Gandaki gorge, often described as one of the deepest in the world. Wind is a defining feature: it rises almost every afternoon and shapes the trekking day, so you start early and arrive by early afternoon.

Lo Manthang was founded in 1380 by Ame Pal, and its walled city, with a five-storey palace built around 1400, three great monasteries (Jampa Lhakhang, Thubchen and Chode) and mud-brick houses, is the cultural highlight. The monarchy was formally abolished in 2008. The people are Tibetan-speaking Loba, and most villages have a monastery, mani walls and chortens. The Tiji festival, held in Lo Manthang in spring, is one of the best-known Buddhist festivals in the region.

Best time to trek, month by month

• March: cold nights and strong winds; some lodges are still closed early in the month.
• April: the season opens in earnest. Mild days and clear skies, though the wind picks up in the afternoon.
• May: warm days, with the Tiji festival in Lo Manthang usually in this period. Dates follow the Tibetan calendar and change every year, so check before you book.
• June to August: monsoon in the south, but Upper Mustang stays largely dry. The desert colours are at their best, though flights to and from Jomsom can be disrupted by cloud in the south.
• September: clear, stable weather as the monsoon ends; a good month.
• October: the most popular month, with clear skies and mild days. Lodges are busy.
• November: cold nights and strong winds, with clear days. The trek is quieter, and some lodges begin to close late in the month.
• December to February: very cold, with heavy snow possible; most lodges are closed and the trek is not recommended.

Routes compared

You can extend the trek with a jeep for some sections, because a road now runs from Kagbeni to Lo Manthang and the Chinese border. The jeep ride shortens the trek, but the footpaths are far nicer. Some itineraries use the road for the outbound leg and walk back, or vice versa.

Permits and rules

Upper Mustang is a restricted area, so you need a Restricted Area Permit issued by the Department of Immigration of Nepal through a registered trekking agency, plus an Annapurna Conservation Area entry permit. Several sources quote the RAP at USD 500 for the first ten days and USD 50 per extra day; Wikipedia gives the same figures, but check the current amount with the Department of Immigration or your agency, because the rules for permit days and fees have changed.

Solo trekking and guides. Since 22 March 2026 one trekker can apply for a restricted-area permit, so a group of two is no longer needed, and a partner halves the guide cost. The application still goes through a registered agency, and that a licensed guide must accompany you throughout. I could not confirm the official wording, so check with the Department of Immigration or your agency before you book.

Getting there

Most trekkers fly from Pokhara to Jomsom (about 20 minutes, mornings only because of the wind), then walk or drive to Kagbeni, where the restricted area begins. Flights are often delayed or cancelled by wind or cloud, so keep a spare day. The alternative is a long jeep ride from Pokhara via Beni and Tatopani, which takes a day or more. Jomsom is about 50 km from Lo Manthang by the unpaved road.

Altitude and acclimatisation

Kagbeni is at 2,810 m and Lo Manthang is at 3,840 m. The trek stays between about 2,700 m and 4,300 m, so altitude is less of an issue than on Everest or Annapurna routes, but you gain height quickly if you jeep part of the way. Take a rest day at Lo Manthang, drink plenty of fluids and be willing to descend if you feel unwell. The long passes between Ghami and Lo Manthang and on the return via Ghar Gompa reach about 4,200 m.

Lodges, costs and food

Lodges in Kagbeni, Chele, Syangboche, Ghami, Tsarang and Lo Manthang are simple, with stove-heated dining rooms. Menus include dal bhat, noodles and Tibetan-style bread, and the apples of the Kali Gandaki are a treat. Prices are higher than in lowland Nepal because of the distance. Carry cash; there are limited machines in Jomsom, none beyond Kagbeni.

Connectivity

Mobile coverage exists in Jomsom, Kagbeni and Lo Manthang, with patchy signal elsewhere. Lodges may sell Wi-Fi by the day, and power depends on solar. Carry a power bank and a paper map.

Safety

• Afternoon winds are strong and cold. Start walking early and wear a windproof layer, a hat and sunglasses.
• Dust and glare are intense; bring sunscreen, lip balm and eye protection.
• Rockfall can occur on cliff paths and caves; keep a safe distance from steep slopes.
• Jomsom flights can be cancelled at short notice; keep a spare day and travel insurance that covers delays.
• Respect the monasteries: do not photograph inside without permission, walk clockwise around chortens and mani walls, and ask before photographing local people.

What to pack

Windproof jacket and trousers, warm layers, down jacket for nights, sun hat, sunglasses with side protection, strong sunscreen and lip balm, a buff or scarf for dust, waterproof boots, trekking poles, headlamp, water purification, a sleeping bag rated to about -10 C and a first-aid kit. Bring passport copies and photos for the permit.

Culture and history

Mustang's culture is Tibetan Buddhist, and the Loba people speak a Tibetan dialect. The Kingdom of Lo was founded in the 14th century and long controlled the trade in salt and wool between Tibet and the Himalayan south. The monarchy was formally abolished in 2008. The monasteries of Lo Manthang, including Jampa Lhakhang and Thubchen, hold some of the finest Tibetan Buddhist wall paintings in Nepal, and restoration work has been going on for years with international help.

Walk clockwise around chortens and mani walls, remove your shoes in monasteries, and do not photograph the wall paintings unless you have permission. Dress modestly in towns and monasteries, and ask before photographing people.

Caves and landscapes

The cliffs of Upper Mustang are riddled with caves, many of which were used as dwellings, meditation retreats or burial places. The Chhoser caves near Lo Manthang are a cluster of dwellings in the cliff, and a 2007 discovery of 55 cave paintings depicting the Buddha's life drew attention to the Mustang caves. Colours range from ochre to rust-red, and the light changes through the day, so photographers should walk at dawn and in the late afternoon.

Responsible trekking

Water is scarce in Mustang, and the wind is relentless. Take only what you need, reuse your water bottle, and avoid wasting water for washing. Carry out your rubbish and do not leave plastic on the plateau. The restricted-area permit funds local development, and you should hire local guides and porters and buy local products. Respect the sacred sites and do not take anything from caves or monasteries.

Using the road

A road now runs from Kagbeni to Lo Manthang and the Chinese border, and jeeps are common. Some trekkers use jeeps for the first and last days, or on parts of the route, to save time. The footpaths are more pleasant and are well worth walking, but the road can be useful if you are short of time, the weather is bad or you are unwell. Ask your agency which stretches are on foot and which by vehicle.

Money, insurance and logistics

Because the permit is arranged through an agency, the agency usually handles flights, transport, guide and lodging. Carry rupees and small notes. Insurance should cover trekking to 4,500 m and helicopter evacuation. Jomsom flights are the biggest source of delays, so keep a spare day at each end and avoid booking an international flight close to your return.

The Tiji festival

Tiji is a multi-day Buddhist festival held in Lo Manthang in spring, with masked dances performed by monks of the Chode monastery in the courtyard of the palace square. It retells the story of a deity who defeats a demon to save the kingdom from drought, and it draws many local people and visitors. Dates follow the Tibetan lunar calendar and change every year, usually falling in May. If you want to see it, book lodging and permits well in advance and ask your agency to confirm the exact dates.

Food and lodging

Upper Mustang menus include dal bhat, thukpa (noodle soup), Tibetan bread, momos, fried potatoes and tea with butter or sugar. Apples and dried fruit from the Kali Gandaki are sold in many villages, and Marpha brandy is a local drink. Lodges in Lo Manthang range from simple to quite comfortable, and some have hot showers; elsewhere rooms are basic with shared toilets. Carry a warm sleeping bag, because nights are cold at 3,500 m and above.

Photography and the light

Upper Mustang is a photographer's landscape. The cliffs turn from ochre to deep red as the sun moves, the villages stand out in whitewash against brown hills, and the blue sky is often cloudless. Shoot in the early morning and late afternoon, use a polarising filter to cut glare, and protect your gear from dust and wind with a cover and a lens cloth. Always ask permission before photographing people, and never photograph monastery interiors or wall paintings unless the monks say you may.