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Shey Gompa monastery on a green meadow beside a braided river in the Hubaiung Khola valley

Upper Dolpo: Shey Phoksundo to Shey Gompa

A 22-day restricted-area circuit from Juphal to Phoksundo Lake, over the Kang La to Shey Gompa and Saldang, over the Jeng La to Dho Tarap, and out through Tarakot and Dunai.

  • Days22
  • Max altitude5,360 m
  • Distance225 km
  • Ascent10,714 m
  • DifficultyHard
  • Best monthsMay–Jun, Sep–Oct
  • Permits3

Photo: Sergey Pashko · CC BY 3.0

Written by FindTrekkingPartner teamReviewed by FindTrekkingPartner teamHow we reviewFindTrekkingPartner

Upper Dolpo: Shey Phoksundo to Shey Gompa is a 22-day trek in the Dolpo region of Nepal that climbs to 5,360 m. Foreign trekkers can find a partner for it on FindTrekkingPartner by posting a trip with their dates, budget and pace. Matches stay private until both trekkers agree, and the service is free. At mid-range rates a licensed guide costs about USD 205 per person over 22 days when four trekkers share, against USD 821 for one trekker alone. The best seasons are May–Jun, Sep–Oct. This is a restricted area, so a licensed guide hired through a registered agency is part of the permit, and the whole group travels on one agency permit. Open trips for this route are listed below, with start month, group size and spots left. Last verified: October 19, 2026. Sources: Nepal Tourism Board, DNPWC, Department of Immigration.

Sources:Department of Immigration, NepalNepal Tourism BoardDepartment of National Parks and Wildlife Conservation

Overview

Starts from KathmanduPasses: Kang La (Nangdalo La), Saldang La, Jeng La22 days · max 5,360 m

Best seasons: May–Jun, Sep–Oct · Permits: Upper Dolpo restricted area permit (Department of Immigration, via a registered agency), Shey Phoksundo National Park entry permit, TIMS card where required

This 22-day circuit crosses Dolpo from Phoksundo Lake to Shey Gompa, the Crystal Mountain monastery, on to Namgung and Saldang in the heart of Upper Dolpo, then over the Jeng La to Dho Tarap and out through Tarakot and Dunai. It flies from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj and on to Juphal, walks through Dunai and Chhepka to Ringmo and the turquoise lake at about 3,610 m, climbs to Lar Tsa, crosses the Kang La at about 5,360 m and descends to Shey Gompa at about 4,360 m. The route covers about 270 km on foot with a gain of roughly 12,000 m, following the stages of the operator itineraries in the sources. Upper Dolpo is a restricted area, so you need a Restricted Area Permit through a registered agency, the national park permit and a licensed guide, and most nights are in tents. It is a hard, remote trek. The best months are May and June, and September and October. Allow spare days for the flights.

What the trek is like

From Juphal, the trail follows the Thuli Bheri river to Dunai, the district headquarters, then enters the national park at Sulighat and climbs through blue pine and birch forest to Chhepka and Ringmo. The lake is the highlight of the first week, with a waterfall, chortens and a Bon monastery. North of Phoksundo the landscape turns dry and treeless, and the path climbs to Lar Tsa and over the Kang La, then drops to Shey Gompa beside the Crystal Mountain. Beyond Shey, a high crossing leads to Namgung and Saldang, the largest village of Upper Dolpo, with flat-roofed stone houses, barley fields and a wide plateau. The Jeng La then drops you into the Tarap valley at Dho Tarap, and a long river descent through Khanigaon and Tarakot returns to Dunai.

Highlights

  • Phoksundo Lake, a 494-hectare Ramsar lake with a waterfall of about 167 m
  • The Kang La, with views of the Kanjiroba range and the Dolpo ranges
  • Shey Gompa, an 11th-century Kagyu monastery beside the Crystal Mountain
  • Saldang and Namgung, with Tibetan-style houses, chortens and barley terraces
  • The Jeng La and Dho Tarap, a walled village in the Tarap valley

Permits and rules

Upper Dolpo needs a Restricted Area Permit from the Department of Immigration, applied for through a registered trekking agency, and the Shey Phoksundo National Park entry permit. The restricted-area permit is charged by the number of days spent in the area, so ask the agency for the current amounts and check them with the Department of Immigration. A licensed guide is compulsory, and most itineraries use camping and a cook. Carry passport copies and permits for the check posts at Juphal and Sulighat.

Best season

May and June, and September and October are the best months. Dolpo lies in the rain shadow, so July and August are drier than in most of Nepal, but cloud over Nepalgunj can ground flights. The Kang La is often snowbound before May and after early November. Winter is very cold and the high villages are empty.

Altitude

The plan reaches Ringmo at about 3,640 m on day 4, with a rest day, then Lar Tsa at about 3,740 m, and Shey at about 4,360 m after the Kang La at about 5,360 m. The saddle between Shey and Namgung reaches about 5,100 m and the Jeng La about 5,100 to 5,124 m, according to OpenStreetMap, and sources quote figures from 5,090 to 5,200 m. The Kang La day is long, with 1,600 m of climbing. Watch for headache, nausea and poor sleep, never ascend with symptoms, and descend if they worsen. Rescue in Upper Dolpo can take a full day, so ascend slowly.

Getting there and away

Fly Kathmandu to Nepalgunj (about an hour) and then to Juphal on a small plane (about 40 minutes). The return reverses this. Flights depend on weather and are often delayed, so keep two spare days in your schedule. There is no road to Phoksundo or Upper Dolpo.

Lodges, food and costs

Lodges operate at Dunai, Chhepka and Ringmo, but in Upper Dolpo most groups camp, using a cook and kitchen tent, with local homestays at Saldang and Namgung. Food is carried in, so costs are higher than on lodge treks, and the permits and flights add more. Bring cash for the whole trek, because there are no machines beyond Dunai.

Packing list

Broken-in boots, waterproof layers, a down jacket, a sleeping bag rated to about minus 15 C, gloves, a warm hat, sun hat, sunglasses, lip balm, gaiters, trekking poles, a headlamp, water purification and a first-aid kit. A trekking umbrella helps in sun and rain.

Who this trek suits and how to prepare

The trek suits fit, experienced trekkers who are comfortable with camping and a few nights above 4,000 m. Prepare with long hill walks with a loaded pack and some altitude experience. The distances are long, and several days run 8 to 10 hours.

The plan at a glance

Days 1 and 2 fly to Nepalgunj and Juphal. Days 3 and 4 walk to Chhepka and Ringmo, with a rest day on day 5. Days 6 and 7 go to Lar Tsa and over the Kang La to Shey, with a rest day on day 8. Days 9 and 10 cross to Namgung and Saldang, with a rest on day 11. Days 12 to 14 go to Rakyo, the Jeng La Phedi camp and over the Jeng La to Dho Tarap, with a rest on day 15. Days 16 to 20 descend through Lahini, Khanigaon, Tarakot and Dunai to Juphal, and days 21 and 22 fly back to Kathmandu.

Extensions

A shorter version returns from Saldang the way you came, over the Kang La, saving about a week. You can also visit Yangtser Gompa from Saldang, add the Numa La and Baga La route from Dho Tarap to Phoksundo, or add rest days to ease the flight schedule.

Practical tips from the trail

  • Start early on the Kang La day, with food, water and warm layers in your day bag.
  • Keep spare days for the Juphal flights, which are often delayed.
  • Walking times in the day plan are estimates from distance and climb; operators quote different hours, and the Kang La, Jeng La and Tarap valley days run long.
  • Carry sun protection: the plateau is bright and dry.
  • Respect monasteries and walk clockwise around chortens.
  • Do not give sweets or money to children.

Responsible trekking

Take rubbish out, use filtered water, avoid wood fires in the national park and buy from local families. Ask before photographing people and ceremonies.

Highlights

  • Phoksundo Lake, about 3,610 m, and Ringmo village
  • The Kang La at about 5,360 m, the gateway to Upper Dolpo
  • Shey Gompa and the Crystal Mountain pilgrimage
  • Namgung and Saldang, Tibetan-style villages of the Upper Dolpo plateau
  • Blue sheep, snow leopard country and wide, dry mountain landscapes

Route map

Day by day

Acclimatisation

Sleeping altitude night by night. Bars in red climb more than 500 m from the night before; rest days are marked.

  • Sleeping altitude
  • Gain over 500 m
  • Rest day

What it costs

Estimated all-in cost per person: lodge and food by altitude, transport, permits, and the guide and porters. The more trekkers share a guide and porters, the less each person pays. As of October 2026.

Style1 trekker2 trekkers sharing4 trekkers sharing
Budget$2,100–$2,750*$1,850–$2,350*$1,700–$2,150*
Mid-range$2,550–$3,500*$2,150–$2,850*$2,000–$2,650*
Comfort$2,750–$3,750*$2,500–$3,350*$2,350–$3,150*

Breakdown for 2 trekkers sharing

ItemBudgetMid-rangeComfort
Lodge and food$540–$830$710–$1,100$930–$1,400
Transport$200–$290$200–$290$200–$290
Permits$830–$840$830–$840$830–$840
Guide$260–$410$260–$410$260–$410
Porters—$140–$230$280–$460

Budget uses public transport and no porter; mid-range shares one porter between two trekkers and a private vehicle; comfort gives each trekker a porter. A guide is included where one is required or the style is mid-range or comfort.

Nightly lodge and food (room and a dal bhat meal)

5 nights Below 2,500 m: room $2–$9, dal bhat $4–$7 · 7 nights 2,500 to 3,800 m: room $4–$11, dal bhat $5–$11 · 9 nights Above 3,800 m: room $7–$19, dal bhat $8–$13

Permit fees (official sources)
  • Upper Dolpo restricted-area permit: $50 per day Source
  • Shey Phoksundo National Park entry permit: NPR 3,000 per entry Source
  • TIMS card (trekking agency issued): NPR 2,000 per entry Source
Cost sources

Estimates from operator guides, not quotes. Tips, insurance, gear and Kathmandu hotels are not included; USD at the platform exchange rate.

Frequently asked questions

Yes, a Restricted Area Permit from the Department of Immigration through a registered agency, charged by the number of days in the area, plus the Shey Phoksundo National Park permit. Ask for current fees.

No. A licensed guide is compulsory in the restricted area, and agencies usually provide a camping crew as well.

Twenty-two days from Kathmandu on this plan, including two flight days at each end, three rest days and 15 walking days. Operator itineraries run 24 to 27 days with weather buffers.

About 5,360 m, according to OpenStreetMap. It is the highest point of the trek, and the day from Lar Tsa to Shey is long.

May and June, and September and October. Dolpo is in the rain shadow, so the plateau can be dry in July and August, but flights are often disrupted by cloud.

An 11th-century Kagyu monastery beside the Crystal Mountain, a pilgrimage site inside Shey Phoksundo National Park, at about 4,360 m.

Yes. The circuit crosses the Jeng La from the Saldang valley to Dho Tarap and returns through Tarakot and Dunai, the usual 22 to 25 day Upper Dolpo itinerary.

Sources

Along the trail

Stays, medical help, water and sights on each day of the route.

  1. 1. Kathmandu → Nepalgunj

    • Tribhuvan International Airport · Airports & transport · 1,340 m
    Show all 2 places
    • Tribhuvan International Airport · Airports & transport · 1,340 m
    • Nepalgunj Airport · Airports & transport · 165 m
  2. 2. Nepalgunj → Juphal

    Nothing mapped for this day yet.
    Nothing mapped for this day yet.
  3. 3. Juphal → Chhepka

    • Dolpa Airport · Airports & transport · 2,489 m
    • Drinking Water · Practical · 2,044 m
    • Rupgar hotel · Stays · 2,070 m
    • स्वास्थ्य चौकी कार्यालय परीला डोल्पा · Medical · 2,535 m
    • Sunita Hotel · Stays · 2,287 m
    • Shyanta · Stays · 2,490 m
    • Jharana Hotel · Stays · 2,666 m
    Show all 8 places
    • Dolpa Airport · Airports & transport · 2,489 m
    • Drinking Water · Practical · 2,044 m
    • Rupgar hotel · Stays · 2,070 m
    • स्वास्थ्य चौकी कार्यालय परीला डोल्पा · Medical · 2,535 m
    • Sunita Hotel · Stays · 2,287 m
    • Shyanta · Stays · 2,490 m
    • Hotel Swagat · Stays · 2,492 m
    • Jharana Hotel · Stays · 2,666 m
  4. 4. Chhepka → Ringmo

    • Keshang Hotel · Stays · 3,032 m
    • Shey Karnali Hotel · Stays · 3,120 m
    • Saijol Health Post · Medical · 3,118 m
    • Phoksundo Hotel · Stays · 3,132 m
    • Amchi Hospital · Medical · 3,129 m
    • Jharana Hotel · Stays · 3,131 m
    • Viewpoint · Viewpoints · 3,647 m
    • Drinking Water · Practical · 3,645 m
    Show all 11 places
    • Keshang Hotel · Stays · 3,032 m
    • Hotel Pahuna Ghar · Stays · 3,032 m
    • Samshana Hotel · Stays · 3,055 m
    • Shey Karnali Hotel · Stays · 3,120 m
    • Saijol Health Post · Medical · 3,118 m
    • Phoksundo Hotel · Stays · 3,132 m
    • Amchi Hospital · Medical · 3,129 m
    • Jharana Hotel · Stays · 3,131 m
    • Chunuwar Health Post · Medical · 3,136 m
    • Viewpoint · Viewpoints · 3,647 m
    • Drinking Water · Practical · 3,645 m
  5. 5. Ringmo

    • Shey Phoksundo Hotel view point · Stays · 3,637 m
  6. 6. Ringmo → Lar Tsa

    • Sherpa Hotel&Lodge · Stays · 3,640 m
    • Stupid Hotel & Lounge · Stays · 3,626 m
    • Shey Shikhahr Lakeside Hotel&Lodge · Stays · 3,632 m
    • Drinking Water · Practical · 3,640 m
    • Phoksundo Lake · Nature · 3,612 m
    • Viewpoint · Viewpoints · 3,845 m
    • Tholudhunga · Stays · 3,700 m
    Show all 13 places
    • Sherpa Hotel&Lodge · Stays · 3,640 m
    • Stupid Hotel & Lounge · Stays · 3,626 m
    • Shey Shikhahr Lakeside Hotel&Lodge · Stays · 3,632 m
    • Himalayan Hotel & Lodge · Stays · 3,641 m
    • Mount Kailash Guest House · Stays · 3,640 m
    • Drinking Water · Practical · 3,640 m
    • Ringmo · Stays · 3,640 m
    • New tourist Guest House · Stays · 3,650 m
    • Phoksundo Lake · Nature · 3,612 m
    • Viewpoint · Viewpoints · 3,845 m
    • Shepherds Camp · Stays · 3,615 m
    • Lower Forest Camp · Stays · 3,670 m
    • Tholudhunga · Stays · 3,700 m
  7. 7. Lar Tsa → Shey

    • Cave Camp · Stays · 4,445 m
    • High Camp · Stays · 4,640 m
    • O-ma'i mcho · Nature · 4,975 m
    • Shelri Youton Hotel & Gusthouse - 2026 · Stays · 4,338 m
  8. 8. Shey

    Nothing mapped for this day yet.
    Nothing mapped for this day yet.
  9. 9. Shey → Namgung

    • Sela Bhaniyan · Nature · 5,112 m
    • Dolpo Sorig Khang · Medical · 4,645 m
    • Namgung · Stays · 4,400 m
    • Chi-Khang · Stays · 4,343 m
  10. 10. Namgung → Saldang

    • Namgung Gonpa Waterfall · Nature · 4,454 m
    • Saldang · Stays · 4,091 m
    • Health Post · Medical · 4,057 m
    • Dolpo Saldang Labrang · Stays · 4,060 m
    • Dolpo Cafe · Stays · 4,018 m
  11. 11. Saldang

    Nothing mapped for this day yet.
    Nothing mapped for this day yet.
  12. 12. Saldang → Rakyo

    Nothing mapped for this day yet.
    Nothing mapped for this day yet.
  13. 13. Rakyo → Jeng La Phedi

    Nothing mapped for this day yet.
    Nothing mapped for this day yet.
  14. 14. Jeng La Phedi → Dho Tarap

    • Thaksi · Stays · 4,222 m
    • Budda Ribo view homestay · Stays · 4,211 m
    • Drinking Water · Practical · 4,163 m
    • Takshi Hospital · Medical · 4,141 m
    • Angad Galley and Cafe Inn · Stays · 4,095 m
    • Star Mountain Hotel and Grocery · Stays · 4,089 m
    Show all 7 places
    • Thaksi · Stays · 4,222 m
    • Budda Ribo view homestay · Stays · 4,211 m
    • Hotel Lumbini · Stays · 4,189 m
    • Drinking Water · Practical · 4,163 m
    • Takshi Hospital · Medical · 4,141 m
    • Angad Galley and Cafe Inn · Stays · 4,095 m
    • Star Mountain Hotel and Grocery · Stays · 4,089 m
  15. 15. Dho Tarap

    Nothing mapped for this day yet.
    Nothing mapped for this day yet.
  16. 16. Dho Tarap → Lahini

    • Dolpo Buddha Hotel · Stays · 4,071 m
    • Dho Tarap · Stays · 4,074 m
    • Sisal Camp Site · Stays · 3,844 m
  17. 17. Lahini → Khanigaon

    • Toltol · Stays · 3,701 m
    • Nawarpani · Stays · 3,611 m
    • Lain Odar · Stays · 3,293 m
  18. 18. Khanigaon → Tarakot

    • Chhiring Hotel · Stays · 2,614 m
    • Drinking Water · Practical · 2,525 m
    • Bagar base camp · Stays · 2,429 m
  19. 19. Tarakot → Dunai

    • Health Post · Medical · 2,633 m
    • Drinking Water · Practical · 2,099 m
    • Grish Hotel · Stays · 2,088 m
    • Murmur Hotel · Stays · 2,089 m
    • Murmur Garden Hotel · Stays · 2,085 m
    • Pla Guest House · Stays · 2,089 m
    • स्वास्थ्य सेवा कार्यालय, दुनई-डोल्पा · Medical · 2,088 m
    • Army helipad · Airports & transport · 2,103 m
    Show all 18 places
    • Health Post · Medical · 2,633 m
    • Drinking Water · Practical · 2,099 m
    • Hotel bluesheep · Stays · 2,091 m
    • Grish Hotel · Stays · 2,088 m
    • Murmur Hotel · Stays · 2,089 m
    • Murmur Garden Hotel · Stays · 2,085 m
    • Pla Guest House · Stays · 2,089 m
    • Sagarmatha Hotel · Stays · 2,087 m
    • Mayur Hotel · Stays · 2,087 m
    • Satkar Hotel · Stays · 2,087 m
    • Royal Hotel · Stays · 2,086 m
    • स्वास्थ्य सेवा कार्यालय, दुनई-डोल्पा · Medical · 2,088 m
    • Hotel Jagdulla · Stays · 2,087 m
    • Dhuraba Hotel · Stays · 2,088 m
    • Army helipad · Airports & transport · 2,103 m
    • Thapa Hotel · Stays · 2,091 m
    • District hospital · Medical · 2,090 m
    • Dolpa District Hospital · Medical · 2,090 m
  20. 20. Dunai → Juphal

    • Drinking Water · Practical · 2,174 m
    • Jufal health post · Medical · 2,434 m
    • जुफाल स्वास्थ्य चौकी, डोल्पा · Medical · 2,438 m
    • Hotel Tripura · Stays · 2,487 m
    • Hotel Mount Putha & Restaurant · Stays · 2,475 m
    • Dolpa Airport · Airports & transport · 2,499 m
    • Mount putha · Stays · 2,482 m
  21. 21. Juphal → Nepalgunj

    Nothing mapped for this day yet.
    Nothing mapped for this day yet.
  22. 22. Nepalgunj → Kathmandu

    Nothing mapped for this day yet.
    Nothing mapped for this day yet.
Last verified on Oct 19, 2026Report outdated info
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