Phulchowki Day Hike

Phulchowki is a one-day hike from Godavari, on the south-east edge of the Kathmandu Valley, to the 2,782 m summit and back. On our map the round trip is about 13.1 km with 1,270 m of climbing, partly on the summit road and partly on footpaths that cut its bends. Operators say a fit walker reaches the top in under three hours and a normal pace takes four to five; the return is faster. That makes seven to eight hours on foot from the bus stop, which is longer than the four to six hour days operators sell, because their vehicles carry you part of the way up; in the account we cite the van stopped about 7 km below the top. Pack lunch and water, since there is nothing to buy on the hill. None of our sources lists a permit fee for it.

The plan follows an account of the walk from Godavari and an operator itinerary, which agree on the forest, the birds and the summit tower. Heights vary in the sources from 2,782 to 2,823 m; OpenStreetMap gives 2,782 m, so we use that figure. The road is winding, and the shortcuts between its bends are steep and can be slippery.

What the hike is like

The route climbs out of Godavari through forest that is rich in rhododendron, with birdsong all the way. Where the road bends, footpaths cut across the slope through trees and bushes. Near the top an army post and communications towers stand beside the tower; one account notes that an army officer let the group look around the tower, so follow any instructions given. A Buddhist shrine stands at the summit. On a clear day you see mountains to the north and the whole valley below.

Permits and rules

None of our sources lists a park permit or entrance fee for the hill itself. Godavari Botanical Garden, at the start, has its own entry rules if you visit. Follow any instructions from soldiers near the military post, and carry out your litter.

Best season

Spring (March to April) fills the forest with rhododendron flowers and autumn (October to November) gives the clearest mountain views. In the monsoon the shortcuts are muddy and clouds hide the view.

Getting there and away

Local buses run from Ratna Park in Kathmandu to Godavari for about NPR 30 according to a 2018 transport guide, so expect a little more now. An office van took about 1.5 hours from Kathmandu in the account we cite. Allow time for the bus back.

Difficulty and fitness

The hike is moderate to hard for a day walk: 1,270 m up and down in 13 km. Start by 7 am, carry two litres of water and lunch, and turn back by 1 pm to be down before dark.

Budget notes

The main costs are the bus or taxi to Godavari and lunch. The costs section shows the bus fare from the 2018 guide, which is likely to have gone up.