Nagarkot to Changu Narayan Day Hike

The Nagarkot to Changu Narayan hike is a one-day downhill walk from the ridge village of Nagarkot, about 2,150 m, through Telkot and a string of Tamang and Newar villages to the temple hill of Changu Narayan. On our map the walk is about 11.7 km with 150 m of climbing and 535 m of descent, on village roads, tracks and forest paths. Operators give about 14 km and four to five hours, with a rest stop at Telkot, so our shorter map line looks a little brisk. You drive about 1.5 hours from Kathmandu to Nagarkot, ideally in time for the sunrise view, and take about an hour back from Changu Narayan, or a short bus ride to Bhaktapur. The Nagarkot viewpoint and the Changu Narayan temple charge entrance fees. Carry water and lunch.

The plan follows two operator itineraries that agree on Nagarkot, Telkot and the temple, and on the timing of about four and a half hours with a break. Heights differ: sources give Nagarkot at 2,100 to 2,195 m, and Wikivoyage gives 2,163 m. The same descent is the last day of our Chisapani Nagarkot trek.

What the hike is like

The trail leaves Nagarkot's ridge and descends through pine and rhododendron forest and terraced fields, passing small Tamang and Newar villages. Telkot is the midway rest stop, with an optional monastery visit. The path is wide and easy as long as you wear hiking shoes, with a few gentle ascents. Changu Narayan sits on a hilltop. According to Wikipedia it was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979 and stands about 12 km east of Kathmandu, and a pillar there dates to 464 AD.

Permits and rules

None of our sources lists a park permit for this route. Two entrance fees apply: the Nagarkot viewpoint and the Changu Narayan temple, which operators include in their prices without giving amounts. Dress modestly at the temple and keep to the marked path.

Best season

October to November and March to May, according to operators, who also say it can be walked all year. Autumn and spring have the clearest mountain views; Nagarkot sunrise views are best before cloud builds.

Getting there and away

A taxi from Kathmandu to Nagarkot costs NPR 2,000 to 3,000 one way and takes 1.5 to 2 hours, according to Wikivoyage. Public buses via Bhaktapur cost under NPR 100 and take about two hours. From Changu Narayan a private vehicle takes about one hour to Kathmandu, or a short bus ride reaches Bhaktapur.

Difficulty and fitness

The route is easy: it descends 535 m over 11.7 km, on wide paths and quiet roads. Wear shoes with grip, carry two litres of water, and start by 9 am.

Budget notes

The main cost is the taxi to Nagarkot, NPR 2,000 to 3,000 one way, plus the two entrance fees and lunch. The return from Changu Narayan is shown as a line to check.