Manaslu

The Manaslu region, in Gorkha District of west-central Nepal, is a remote trekking area around Manaslu (8,163 m), the eighth-highest mountain in the world. Its classic trek, the Manaslu Circuit, follows the Budhi Gandaki valley north from Machha Khola to Samagaun, then crosses the Larkya La (5,106 m) and descends to Bimthang and Dharapani, joining the Annapurna region. Because the route passes close to the Tibetan border, it lies partly in a restricted area: you need a Restricted Area Permit issued by the Department of Immigration, arranged through a registered agency, and a licensed guide. The best months are October and November, and March to May. Plan 14 days including the drive, with two acclimatisation days at Samagaun and Samdo. Treat it as a serious expedition-style trek: book through a registered agency early, carry insurance for evacuation and allow spare days for weather on the pass.

Overview of the region

The Manaslu Conservation Area was established in 1998 and covers about 1,663 km2, rising from subtropical valleys at around 1,400 m to the summit of Manaslu. It is managed under the Department of National Parks and Wildlife Conservation and classified as IUCN category VI. Snow leopard, Himalayan tahr and musk deer live here, with over 110 species of birds and more than 1,500 flowering plants.

The lower valley is settled by Gurung and other hill communities, and above Namrung the villages are Tibetan-speaking and Buddhist, with monasteries, mani walls and prayer flags. Samagaun, Samdo and Lho are old trading communities. Manaslu was first climbed on 9 May 1956 by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu, members of a Japanese expedition, and the area has a long link with Japan.

Best time to trek, month by month

• March: cold at altitude, with snow on Larkya La. Rhododendron flowers lower down; the pass may not be passable until later in the month.
• April: the spring peak. Flowers and clear weather, though snow lingers on the pass early in the month.
• May: warmer, with some haze and afternoon cloud. Larkya La is usually clear.
• June to August: monsoon. Heavy rain, landslides on the lower trail and cloud; few people trek.
• September: the rains fade through the month, and trails are green. The pass can be wet and icy early.
• October: the most popular month, with stable weather and clear views.
• November: colder but clear and quiet; Larkya La is cold and windy.
• December to February: very cold with deep snow on the pass; the upper villages are often empty. Not recommended without winter experience.

Routes compared

Side trips add variety. The Tsum Valley, a separate restricted area north of Philim, needs its own permit and several extra days. Near Samagaun you can walk to Birendra Lake, Pungyen Gompa and Manaslu Base Camp as acclimatisation hikes.

Permits and rules

The Manaslu Circuit crosses a restricted area, so you need a Restricted Area Permit (RAP) issued by the Department of Immigration of Nepal, plus Manaslu Conservation Area (MCAP) and Annapurna Conservation Area (ACAP) entry permits for the sections they cover, and a TIMS card where required. The permits are applied for through a registered trekking agency, which submits your passport copy and your guide's licence number. Check the current fees with the agency or the Department of Immigration; amounts and the day-count rules for the RAP have changed more than once, and fee quotes on trekking blogs conflict.

Solo trekking and guides. Since 22 March 2026 one trekker can apply for a restricted-area permit, so a group of two is no longer needed, and a partner halves the guide cost. The permit still has to go through a registered agency and a licensed guide must accompany you at all times. I could not confirm the official text, so check with the Department of Immigration or your agency before you book.

Getting there: road

The trek starts from Machha Khola, about 8 to 9 hours by jeep from Kathmandu via Dhading, Arughat and Soti Khola on a rough, dusty road that is often disrupted by landslides in the monsoon. Some trekkers start at Soti Khola or Arughat Bazaar. The exit is by jeep from Dharapani or Tilije to Besisahar and on to Kathmandu or Pokhara, about 6 to 7 hours from Besisahar to Kathmandu. There is no air access to the valley.

Altitude and acclimatisation

Samagaun lies at 3,530 m, Samdo at 3,875 m, and Larkya La at 5,106 m, so acclimatisation matters. The standard plan uses two rest days, one at Samagaun and one at Samdo, with day hikes to Pungyen Gompa, Birendra Lake or toward Manaslu Base Camp. Sleep at Dharamsala (Larkya Phedi, about 4,470 m) before the pass. The crossing is a long day of eight to ten hours, starting before dawn, with a climb of about 700 m from Dharamsala and a descent of about 1,400 m to Bimthang. Turn back if the weather deteriorates, and take any symptoms of altitude sickness seriously.

Lodges, costs and food

Teahouses are simple, though lodges at Samagaun, Samdo and Dharamsala are smaller and more basic than on the Annapurna or Everest routes. Rooms are cheap if you eat at the lodge; menus are limited above Namrung. Carry cash, because there are no machines on the route. Tips for the guide and porters are customary at the end of the trek.

Connectivity

Mobile coverage is patchy: you may find signal in Jagat, Lho and Samagaun, but not along the valley floor. Some lodges sell Wi-Fi by the day, and electricity is limited by solar. Carry a power bank and a paper map, and do not rely on a call for safety.

Safety

• Landslides can cut the lower trail between Machha Khola and Jagat; check conditions.
• The Larkya La crossing involves a glacial moraine and snow, and weather can close the pass. Start before dawn and keep your group together.
• Avalanche paths cross the valley above Samdo in cold seasons.
• Altitude sickness: do not ascend with symptoms, and descend if they worsen.
• Carry travel insurance that covers helicopter evacuation above 5,000 m.

What to pack

Waterproof boots, warm layers, down jacket, shell jacket and trousers, insulated gloves, warm hat, sunglasses or goggles for the pass, microspikes after snow, a sleeping bag rated to about -15 C, trekking poles, a headlamp, water purification and a first-aid kit. Bring several passport photos and copies of your permits.

Culture and communities

The lower Budhi Gandaki valley is home to Gurung and other hill communities, and above Namrung the people of Nubri speak a Tibetan dialect and practise Tibetan Buddhism. The villages of Lho, Sho, Shyala, Samagaun and Samdo have monasteries, long mani walls, chortens and prayer wheels, and many families keep yaks, sheep and horses. The people of Samdo are of Tibetan origin, and small-scale trade with Tibet over the high passes has a long history.

Walk clockwise around religious structures, dress modestly in villages and monasteries, and ask before photographing people. Local people appreciate visitors who buy from village shops and eat in family lodges.

Wildlife and nature

The conservation area is home to snow leopard, musk deer and Himalayan tahr, and Himalayan tahr are often seen on the slopes above Samagaun. Birdlife includes the Himalayan monal, snow pigeons and several species of vulture. The forests between Deng and Namrung are among the richest on the route, with rhododendron, bamboo, oak and pine, and the area has a large variety of flowering plants.

Responsible trekking

Teahouses at Samagaun, Samdo and Dharamsala are small and far from the road, so everything has to be carried in. Carry out your rubbish, take care with water and fuel, and do not expect a hot shower. The Manaslu Conservation Area Project and local lodge committees manage waste and trail upkeep, and your permits help to pay for that. Hire local guides and porters and treat them well, with proper clothing and sensible loads.

Side trips

From Samagaun, the day walks to Birendra Lake and Pungyen Gompa are popular acclimatisation trips. A longer walk to Manaslu Base Camp, at about 4,800 m, needs most of a day, and is best done only if you are acclimatised. From Philim, the Tsum Valley is a separate restricted area that needs its own permit, extra days and a guide familiar with it; it is known for monasteries such as Mu Gompa and Rachen Gompa. Check the rules and timing with your agency.

Combining with other treks

The Manaslu Circuit ends at Dharapani, which is on the Annapurna Circuit. Some people continue over Thorong La, joining the Annapurna Circuit for a trek of 20 days or more, which requires serious fitness and acclimatisation. Others finish at Besisahar and return to Kathmandu or Pokhara. Plan any extension with your agency, because your permits and guide cover only certain sections.

Money, insurance and logistics

Because the permit is arranged through an agency, the agency usually handles transport, guide and accommodation. Carry rupees for drinks and snacks, and enough small notes. Your insurance should cover trekking to 5,500 m, helicopter evacuation and restricted-area activities, so check the wording. If you are travelling on a tight schedule, leave a spare day in case the road from Kathmandu or the pass crossing is delayed by weather.

The permit process step by step

Because the circuit is a restricted area, planning starts in Kathmandu. Your registered agency collects your passport copy, visa details and photos, and submits the application to the Department of Immigration together with your guide's licence number and insurance details. The agency also buys the Manaslu Conservation Area and Annapurna Conservation Area permits and the TIMS card where it is required. Allow at least a few working days for processing, bring several passport photos, and keep paper copies of every permit, because checkposts at Jagat, Philim, Namrung and Samagaun inspect them. Insurance that covers restricted-area trekking and helicopter evacuation is part of the process, so check your policy wording first.

Food and lodging

Food at lower lodges is varied, but above Namrung menus shrink to dal bhat, noodles, tsampa porridge, potatoes, eggs and tea. In Samagaun and Samdo you may find local yak products, and in some lodges tsampa and butter tea are on offer. Rooms are small and often unheated, so bring a warm sleeping bag. Check with your guide before you rely on lodges having space at Dharamsala in the busy season.

Training and preparation

The Manaslu Circuit is long and remote, and it rewards preparation. Aim for three months of regular hill walking with a loaded pack, stair climbing and cardio, and practise on back-to-back long days to simulate the first week. Break in your boots, test your sleeping bag and practise with microspikes and poles. If you have not been above 4,500 m before, consider doing a shorter high trek first. Mental preparation matters as well: cold nights, simple food and long days are part of the journey, and a flexible attitude is the best asset.